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Baghdad, Iraq -- This is my second time in Baghdad, and I have to admit, overall I have seen a lot of improvements. My first trip, in the summer of to do a large investigative report for New York's Gay City News was during the height of the Surge, the U. military effort to calm the insurgency. It looks like it worked.

Ali Hili tears through the extravagant mass of CDs that line the walls of his messy home office and fill every horizontal surface with corkscrews of jewel bos. Like other singers of a certain pathos, Dalida enjoyed a huge gay following throughout the Middle East and especially in Baghdad in the s, when Hili worked as a DJ in gay-friendly clubs at the Palestine Hotel and the luxurious al-Rashid Hotel. He finds the disc he has in mind, but before he can play it, his cell phone rings, and he checks the caller ID and quickly snaps the phone to his ear. And then he kind of moans, and tears soon form in his eyes.

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